Home sweet home

Back one hour early-quick flight. Back to hurried America. Feel free to call me today til 7 pm. I know Ill need some help staying up ;). See some of you Saturday.

Shanghai cost of living

For being one of the most expensive cities to live in, I'm amazed at how cheap the necessities are. I took a 20 cent ferry ride across the river, and a good noodle meal - which is supersize can run you maximum 2 dollars in a neighborhood. Subway across town cost me 75 cents and my taxi ride - over and hour in rush hour to the other side of town cost me 6 dollars. When I gave him a 3 dollar tip I know he was amazed.

I've been getting the bargaining down and now get most things for less than a quarter of the initial price. There's a whole game to it Ibe finally learned.

Since every trip has to have a scary minute - I had mine when trying to get a cab. I saw an empty one pass so I ran to catch up with it and was just going to knock on the window as it was caught in traffic and I heard a noise turned left and a bus was about 10 feet from me coming to a halt. I quickly jumped back to the curb. My heart race the cab is still there when the bus passes and I'm safely in. I was so proud of my navigating the city today by subway, ferry and by foot and by instinctive navigations without a map - that it was ironic my last easy transportation move - finding a cab-nearly cost me my life. Crossing the street is hard here- much easier by far than Cairo- you really focus just looking one direction to cross half way - cars, scooters, bikes all at different speeds you'll be dodging and than you sometimes find yourself in the middle of the street completely forgetting you have to look the other way to navigate the second half now. Have no worries friends my last adventure tonight is just around the corner on the same block. Some good foodshops right across from the train station which is a block away. I won't be crossing any streets anymore. 6:30 am airport pick up and Ill be safely on route by air for the rest of my journey.

Just hoping my slight cold and sore throat won't give me hassles on the flight - need to get some good tea in me - I think its been a full day since I've had some. Ironically, bought two really warm sweaters here and a scarf - which was 1 dollars 25 cents gotta love that. For those who think I spent a fortune on this trip - as you're starting to see with a 50 dollar hotel in Shanghai- a Holiday Inn newly remodeled and 50 a day in tourism site tickets its a destination that doesn't break the bank. I'm wondering if my tour organizer even made anything off me for this ;) now to dinner to spend the last of my RBMs.

Jinmao Tower

What a beautiful sunny, clear day for me to head across the river by subway to the TV tower and JinMao tower in Pudong and to see the whole city of Shanghai. The massive scale of China is overwhelming - especially knowing I'm just seeing Shanghai. There is little green space and the high rises in the distance only disappear into the hazy of the pollution. The western brand signs dot the river. I hit the "super brand mall" complete with a Best Buy at the top. Very fun to look inside and try to compare prices.

With a birdseye view of the world expo construction - proof of a country trying to prove itself again to the outside world. Now seeing the vastness of this city- the minor rebuilding of that site is really just that only a small plot in this massive city.

Truly an amazing journey and now a deeper understanding of a country America is sometimes so obsessed about. Could I ever live here perhaps someday.

World politics

As I read the China Daily on the Mumbai terrorist attacks and their sidebar with comments from world leaders, I'm thankful that Bush will soon be out of office.

Like other travels, I always ask foreigner perception of the U.S. This time Barack Obama is already well liked by others and they all agree he will be a welcome change from Bush. Especially Germans have good things to say-with his visit to Berlin-one gentleman I met saw him there. Some said Obama will help racism around the world.

A Scottish pair of doctors went so far as to question Bush's intelligence. They said the UK was intensely covering the election. Others have questioned how a man like Bush could "run" our huge economy. This theme of hatred for Bush hasn't change over the last four years since my first travels. Thankfully, foreigners do understand the difference between Bush's actions and the American people.

Asking stupidly why other countries are so worried about American happenings a women from Indonesia admitted because we consume so much of what they export. Others say it is because of our heavy influence in world politics while others say America is the trendsetters for good or for bad. Lastly, one German said our instability always had world ripples.

I was amazed by how many people actually know of Minneapolis and even the bridge collapse. One Norweigan said he knew our roads were bad and he (unprompted) talked about the bridge- he was shocked to know a new one was already open.

At some silk factories, pearl shops and a few tourist sites there will be pictures of major dignitaries on the wall during their visit. Bill Clinton was nearly everywhere. I saw only one of Bush. Makes me even more pleased to have read last week about Hilary's future role.

I'm always so grateful to be an American and perhaps with Obama's presidency I'll be proud once again to admit I'm an American to foreigners.

Thanks

A special Thanksgiving greeting to all of you. As you start your day.

After enjoying my Thanksgiving dinner with Morgan, a FedEx pilot, at an American expat bar, I'm grateful to not be in Mumbai where American and British hotels were terrorized.

Two weeks in a developing country can truly put in perspective what an American can be thankful for.

Today I'm thankful for:

-a father who taught me about hard work
-a mother who instilled independence
-sisters who share a love for humanity and compassion for people and reflect my own strengths, weaknesses and triumps
-friends who demonstrate unconditional love and continue to help me learn and grow. Mentors, colleagues, neighbors, old and new friends included.)
-my ability to.... (Fill in the blank-which could be everything) and the wisdom to know that anything is possible
-my faith
-health, wealth, home and happiness.

I'm truly blessed and have been granted much luck.

As I told Morgan tonight after he probed with many great questions, I've finally proven to myself I really can do anything - including traveling to a country on the other side of the world all on my own for two weeks. I'm done proving my resilience, independence and strength. I'm grateful for all the gifts I've been granted, for the wonderful people in my life who support me. Thank you all for being there for this journey.

Two hours out

We are now two hours out of downtown Shanghai and still you see 8 -10 construction cranes at a time and massive high rises. It would be like driving to St cloud but the whole way it is like the Bloomington 494 strip. There were farm plots alongside the massive housing developments. Homes look more western - but the terra cotta tile roofs are used. Were back into another metropolis - kinda like having two Chicagos side by side. Unbelievable.

Cleaning-shopping

Today my tour of suburban Shanghai was for water canal tours. Already our guide refered to the Mission Impossible movie. I'm with people from Indonesia, Scotland, Japan and Germany-the biggest group I've been with yet.

As we drive out of the city, 20 story plus high apartment buildings you can see women hanging out laundry to dry on bamboo poles. Even the more affluent- like our guides-dont use a dryer. Even right along the freeway they are hung. Windows are coated with dust-worst I've seen anywhere-while the sun does poke through. This is my second day for sunglasses.

Cleanliness here is mixed contrasts. Fall leaves are swept up within 24 hours. You constantly see sweeping with ancient looking straw brooms. Mopping of mall floors, museum dusting, car window washing are throughout the day. While keeping clean is important there is a dustiness and clutteredness about this place. Only slight drops of rain last night as I walked, so no rain to know how to clears the air or the streets.

The cleanliness principle extends to material things. Shopping bags are the crisp box like ones with handles. Popular cars - VW, BMW, acura - to me cars with clean lines. Clothes are brightly colored to compliment all the black hair here. While my guides traditionally wear the same clothes, I've never seen more winter jackets for sale. I think what every well dressed Chinese is many cloth jackets in various bold colors. Calf high boots, three quarter sleeved sweaters - and jackets too- that you wear turtlenecks underneath. Fleece pajamas and long underwear are plentiful. Victoria Secret-like sexy underwear must be the new vogue. like New York knock off purses, jackets etc are plentiful. Shopping has been difficult for me- even silk pajamas in thr tourist stores are high waters. Before Shanghai, all the large were too tight-which was to be expected. In Shanghai, EU sizing has given me a shot, but prices aren't worth it.

Infrastructure of freeways etc are good. Subways are being built rapidly. Scooters are more popular in South- not in Beijing where bikes still rule. Perhaps with our economic crisis America will begin such infrastructure improvements to fuel jobs.

Just learned one fifth of the world population is Chinese-1.3 billion.

Now entering the suburban villa homes area. I'm feeling less claustrophobic.

Mission Impossible

After a day of walking Shanghai, shopping -finally findings things that fit and I like. This is a fabulous city - I fell in love with it at night the Bund and TV tower. A night of getting the suitcase set for journeying home and I flip on the TV for the first time - HBO Tom Cruise movie on - wasn't sure what and scenes from Shanghai- how ironic. I read in the guidebook this morning about how it showed scenes of the canal area I will visit tomorrow. Just like the movie scenes tall beautiful buildings, lots of people. I could live here-I say that now as a tourist, but the lack of fresh air and green space would likely to me in.



Visited the urban planning center-unbelievable the huge master plan for the city. Having helped the city of Richfield with their master plan - who would be crazy enough to take a plan and build a model of it- a huge model-unbelievable. It showed their construction plans for the World Expo 2010. It said they were the first developing country to host it. Again another example of a country investing heavily in large scale construction to drive this country into the future. A theme throughout my journey. Off to the suburban canal area tomorrow and than to find expats for Thanksgiving. Have a great Thanksgiving everyone.

Shanghai

I'm feeling right at home in Shanghai. Its is very English friendly and very Western. Former French and British concession areas make that possible. I know Ill have no problem finding expats here for Thanksgiving dinner as Christmas is all over. My Beijing Buddhist guide even celebrates the christian day. Today I'm joined by Norweigan, Swiss and Brazilians for my tour of the limited number of sites in the city. It really is about shopping here. Smog is worse than Beijing or perhaps the buildings are taller - perhaps both. Now it see if I notice a different in the regio nal cuisine.

Chinese emotion

I've been here long enough now to finally begin to see beyond the emotionless Chinese exterior. Men get passionate and loud about a good card game. Women about children. I've seen cursing (or so I'm guessing) pedestrians at bikes and cars. This "eye opening" hit me my last day in Beijing as if I had finally assimilated (somewhat) miraculously in my sleep and the nuances of body gestures, tone and gestures opened up.



As I sit here in the airport surrounded again by nearly 100 businessmen I can stereotype the nervous types, the pack leaders etc. A people I didn't understand a week ago are now so human to me. And the role women play in this culture is much like our own- while I've been trying to pick up differences there isn't. I'm so glad these people put up with my people watching--as I know they're checking me out just the same.

Reflecting time

A dear friend asked me this morning by email (while I stood in front of the webcam) if I'd had good reflecting time. I've had some time to add clarity around one major thing. As you all know my ability to set goals and achieve them I've been struggling with prioritizing what I thought were competing goals-find a husband or secure a job abroad. Since this is the longest time I've traveled alone (Egypt was 8 days and 7 days in Europe) I've realized I'd rather find my husband first so together, perhaps with a family, could enjoy the time abroad.



Its not that I'm lonely (lord, I've been independent for too many years), but rather would appreciate someone here to share the memories with. As this trip holds so many. I know that sharing this journey with all of you has been so important and meaningful to me. Thanks for being there enmass and for your emails which keep me connected.



So I'm relaxing on my "to work abroad in 5 years" goal and not putting a time frame anymore as with a man in the mix, I'd rather give more time to the first--to do it right. ;)



The other things I've learned about myself on this journey are nothing new. But I'm declaring another personal truce upon my return to stop pushing myself so hard-something I'm even doing on vacation. I'll welcome you to call me on it too when I return to help me break the habit :)

Airport- cultural revolution-rural life

As I sit down for my 10 dollars glass of tea at the airport - I think I've flown back to the states at that price. The name of the restaurant "Lucky Shamrock" should have clued me in or the velvet seats :) I litterly have 5 hours of waiting-ugh. The very small airport is being updated for the 60th anniversary of the country, which is next year.



We went from rice fields and dirt road to being on the airports main terminal drive within three blocks. Again an example of a country rooted in its past (rural) but trying to modernize very quickly. We drove through a massive new double lane area about 4 miles long - a new industrial park, which street and lampposts were up - but only a few buildings - note, skyscraper size-going up.



Glad to say goodbye to my 48 year old guide who was overly mothering- ugh. But her knowledge was unbelievable. She shared how her father learned English from a priest when he cleaned the church-from that he went on to teach English. During the cultural revolution he was sent to the country for four years without his family. It was during that time my guide upon graduating from middle school was sent to live in the country for one year to learn rural living-as required by Mao ZeDong at the time. She said the cultural revolution was a hard time for her family. It was from her father she learned English and then taught kids English and than went to tourism school in their local neighborhood- like all my guides to enter this career-something she's been doing for 20 years.



She brought me to a village in the countryside- a new place to her. To see the rural way of life after seeing the city was good. Think outdoor courtyard where everything is done and all rooms facing that. The house we met the grandparents had 4 generations and 12 people living there. They took manure in what looked like a septic system top and fermented it and from the gas they get their electricity. The city solar water heaters are another testiment that despite the factory pollution, this country is trying to be green on the home front. we saw about 20 water buffalo being herded down a busy freeway-two women marching them on. Apparently you get one day a month you watch the whole villages water buffalo instead of everyone carrying for their own. I saw rice fields carved into hills. People raking and drying rice on new cement slabs that looked like future home foundations. Corn was just being harvested. Wheat is more popular in this region. I now fully understand why people eat so much- the processed carb meals have left me wondering how Ill respond when I get real fiber again.



Our driver passed cars on this narrow road while going up hills--hed just honk. I feared headon collision at his 45 mph speed. Trees are planted right at the edge of the two lane rough right alongside the cement. They are painted white about 2 feet up, so they form this guard rail on the side of the room. I thought thw white paint would glow in the dark to guide cars at night. Guide said it was lyme on the trees to protect the government planted trees from bugs eating and killing them in the winter. Boy was I wrong on their true purpose.



Two toddlers are running around the airport and rolling on the ground and - surprise crotchless clothes! Yes, only diapers at night. Kids naturally crouch when they need to go so parents train very early here. Guide said was only bad part was when in public-they could go at anytime- but parents are usually ready with a bag --man sounds like how we handle dogs. Most be cold for the kids and part of why they don't come outside in the winter.



Since my fingers are cramping from blackberry typing should finish my "Wanderlust" magazine a London gentleman gave me one night over dinner in Xian. Its a fabulous mag, now to see if I can get a subscription in the states for this UK publication. I'm taking recommendations on where I should go next trip - really welcome all ideas. I've decided Ill likely make at least 30 more trips abroad in my lifetime and should start making a list.



Oh-got on a computer last night downloaded photos etc to be safe and could not get onto Facebook-did I read or hear that was really popular here?



Also, scored one quarter the asking price on some tea today, but still haven't found a pot I like-may need to hit that tea store in Minneapolis to have the right gear for my new loose leaf. Okay 4 more hours of sitting. Ugh.

East meets West

On a tour that caters to Westerners-Western hotels and breakfast buffets, the Chinese attempt at Western is often funny but appreciated.



Other Westerners I've met said English is a lot more dominant now. But sometimes the poorly translated sign you can't understand the meaning. You'd think that the time and money that goes into signage they'd have someone check to get it right. For example, ate lunch at a vegetarian "restsurant" which was new. It was a fancy place in a rich part of town that attracted white tourists- you'd think they'd want to spell restaurant right on the signs throughout.



Breakfast buffet-eggs made to order, some odd sausage links, french toast, juices - and of course dumplings, fried rice and noodles too. Tea is always Lipton bags despite the great leaf tea all around.



The rooms - last nights bed was hard as a rock most are very stiff. The panel to turnoff all the room lights on the bedstand makes me think I'm in a 1960s Vegas room with a vibrating bed. But beautiful bamboo floors are a treat. Windows leak sound - so one night earplugs helped.

Room amenities usually are a 70s style hair dryer, toothbrushes and combs, a soap dispenser in the shower like a gym club. Of course, there is a weight scaleifor weight conscious travelers. I'm thankful for the Western "throne." You put your plastic room card key in the wall to turn on the lights. I haven't turned a TV on yet.



The 80s American English light pop music played everywhere-includong cell ring tones is just like Egypt sadly.

While on a three star guided tour, which is really cheap for doing this solo- what I hate is the western meals and touristy shows, which are to be expected for the price. Most of best adventures are what I stumble upon.



Yesterday, after a bike ride in the country, I walked through a park saw men playing board games something I wanted to see. When leaving, a child on a tricycle (they teach them as soon as they can walk) saw me and said hello in perfect English. His mother and friend laughed. I said hello back and than said "bye" and waved - he blew me a kiss. Amazing - he had to just be about two. All over this tourist-focused city people say "hello.". Beggars included. They enjoy practicing their English and I offer many compliments to those who do.



Unlike France, here I don't feel bad or frustrated by not knowing the language.



While spas are plentiful, I haven't taken time for even a cheap foot massage yet. The "remove calluss form feet" sign makes you laugh.



Accupuncture, Feng shui, tai chi abound. Orange juice is really a sweeter tang with pulp. Most confess the restaurant with the big cheesecake sign drew me in last night-I had two pieces. Other than the New Zealand butter at breakfast sadly the only calcium I'm getting.



My guide bought a North Face jacket at a tourist shop for 40 dollars. Calvin Klein underwear and polo shirts are plentiful. Anyone want anything? Remember this is China where its all made. I scored new bedding at a department store. The designs were unbelievably fresh I wanted to buy many sets. Of course, I got calligraphy art wall hangings and silk pillow covers to match for what will soon be my rejuvenated bedroom.



While honestly most of what I'm seeing isn't new to me, to be experiencing it deepens your understanding of a culture so rooted in the past and yet thriving for more attention-tourism that is. I know what to expect now at ever turn, how people will act, what something will taste like, or what Ill see. From the city to the country now and tomorrow in Shanghai.

Web cam Monday 6 pm

Ill be live in front of the webcam-link below- on Monday evening central time at 6 pm. Perhaps Ill dance a jig or something. This area is SO beautiful- the hills are of legends. Unbelievable. I'm down the Yanghtze River and will head back up to Guilin in the morning for seeing more countryside and hills then off to Shanghai in the late evening for my final leg. This trip has been amazing. Wonderful people along the way. Today spent 4 hours on the cruise with an Oregon couple I first met in my previous city and a Toronto man I met on the plane- what odds to meet them again on the same boat out of dozens doing the river. That's traveling ;). Perhaps see some of you online in the morning when I awake.

Guilin

I'm in Guillin - home of the scooter, or so it seems. I will hit a river cruise today to Yuinghang -I think is the spelling. There is a web cam there I thouight I'd try to find. If all goes well - I thought I'd stand in the street view camera from 5:45 pm to 6:15 pm on Monday evening your time. You can click on the link below and hopefully see me. This will be Tuesday morning for me so there should be daylight. I think the camera updates every 10 minutes. Please email me if you think you'll partake in this little technology experiment and I will email you as I stand there. 10 hours from now I should know if I have found it and will post again to let you know the timing is confirmed. Hopefully I can wave a hello from the other side of the world. I had fun trying to explain this to my guide Alice last night. She is women in her 50s and very kind. I like the different generations of female guides I'm having- great peak at the culture that way.

Babies and marriage

Children are a rare site - teens are plentiful at the mall even in the middle of the day, but babies are few. My guides say it is too cold - about 30 F - for babies to be outside now. Those I do see are about 2-3 very good at walking about in their snowsuits that make them look like mini Michelin men and women.

When babies cry, they are not immediately comforted but rather stop crying on their own. They are much more independent than their American counterparts and extremely well behaved. As a non parent, it appears the Chinese have the right idea on parenting and are not overprotective like Americans.

In the museum, a boy about 5 was speaking to his father with much emotion I asked what he said. Pointing to a fragile relic, he said in an earthquake this would come tumbling down. His father replied he must stop talking about earthquakes.

My guide said the day of the quake she was at the terra cotta museum in the dark underground part with bronze horses on display - this area was kinda scary for me as it was very crowded and pitch black. I feared losing my guide or being pickpocketed in the push of people - to me it would have been the worst place for a tourist during a quake. My guide said she shouted "out, out" making sure all her group got out as they felt the ground shake. She said with emotion in her eyes it was a scary day.

Back to children...While the one child policy is still in affect, families can pay about 3,000 dollars for an additional child. This may be equivalent to a half years home expenses for those in the city. My guide Kellen who has a 17 month old does not know if they'll have a second, sadly because of the economy and her line of work she does not know if they could afford a second.



Grandparents are the expected caregivers. Peter Pan, in Beijing had inlaws move from Shanghai to live with them when his wife became pregnant. Now, no child expected you could tell it was a point of stress.

At lunch over a vegetarian meal, she shared a story of her three best friends. In her broken yet direct English her story about her best friend could have been me. She said one of her best friends was not yet married, but much admired by friends She had it all it - a good career in Hong Kong - she apparently manages two factories and her wealth - owns three homes - to in Xian, one her parents live in and another in Hong Kong. Kellen said she was attractive and had the most going for her, but worried about not being married. Her friends told her that she will get married when she finds someone that looks like her. Okay the story is not so much me, but the message had meaning.

Ironically, as I was checking out this morning a bride and groom entered the hotel lobby with confetti everywhere. Dressed in a western white big dress and red shiny shoes, he picked her up and carried her over the threshhold to their car. (Remember most Chinese doorways have something you need to step over.) Explosions of confetti and fireworks-fire crackers. Throughout the day touring the city, we'd hear the same noise - only for weddings my guide said.

Kellen explained pictures are taken on Saturday and that because in the lunar calendar being the 26th it was a very lucky day to marry. Brides wear three dresses, first western white, than at the reception a traditional Chinese red and than pink after the dinner. The room I have breakfast in was drapped in pink this morning. Younger generations are having church ceremonies - much to the dislike of elders. Otherwise the wedding day is really just the reception - no ceremony apparently. Not sure if they do vows or when the rings come into play. In China Daily I read about the popularization of American weddings. Its so funny how reading two issues cover to cover it spoke to so many of the themes I'm noticing in culture here.

At airport for Guillin. A little boy just tipped over a metal newspaper stand with a bang. The grandfather did one firm scolding and the child did not cry, but wipped tears. Public shamming plus good parenting at work, much better than the helicopter American style.

Hotel marchers

Just passed the "hotel employee marchers" about 50 people in uniform jogging in even rows. My guide clarified they are with a new hotel and their marches while exercise are also advertisement. Poor workers who get a workout- but likely its because they aren't busy yet.

Exercise

I wake up this morning to the sound of what I think is a march of about 100 people down the street in front of my hotel. Yesterday I saw a similar scene - snapped a photo and showed it to my guide. From the flag they were carrying she tells me its a group of hotel employees getting exercise as they jog enmass down the street. Its the same this morning.

Since the sun isn't up yet - note, only one time zone in China - I'm thinking this is my morning I can do tai chi in the park that's a half block away. I hear music about half block down - tai chi on the street - 5 minutes in I'm already breaking a sweat. They do the same sword dance twice - I'm better the second time. They are done so I continue to the park - letting the music guide me. Thoughout the park individual people stand amongst the trees stretching, swinging arms at their waste or tai chi. I find a pop music group doing fast step aerobics there are about 40 women. I join and realize how uncoordinated I am. I sweat for about 30 minutes til their "class" ends with stretches. I move to a tai chi group - mostly older women. A women lends me a fan for the fan exercise and I use it again as my sword. One teen walks by opening laughing and staring - ironically she comes to join us later.

Over an hour has passed the sun is up and the park is now packed. Different speakers are set up everywhere. Dancing to the same music you'll find one group doing step-clap exercises, another line dancing, and couples waltz dancing. As I walk back, I find men like the stand and simply stretch "classes" best. Badminton - without a net is usually right behind a step dance "class". There is the very very rare jogger, but litterly dozens of different groups you could join - all with a different flavor.

In Beijing, you saw hacky sack and people doing Calligraphy on the sidewalk tiles with large sponge head brushes and water. Here tricycles transport heavy loads - as we know the biking thing is the dominant exercise.

At breakfast, I refresh with banana bread -overloading on the butter and discover the hot milk and yogurt - ah calcium. The Russian businessmen make for the entertainment with their laughter. Did I mention yet that Chinese eat a LOT. And they lazy susan thing - gotta love it.

Off to tour Xian than fly to Guillin this evening - should be the warmest yet there. Can't wait.

Street vendor eating

As I wait for an order of dumplings to be made, I'm reveling in the fact I have truly mastered eating from street vendors. I can tell cooked lamb from beef kabobs by the spices. I know the fair price of these nummy rolls I love. I finally tried these honey coated crab apples on a stick. A plate of 20 dumplings for 5 yuan or less than a buck in American. The nuts, dried kiwi. This is better than a restaurant with a menu you can't read. Rather you walk, you look, you see how full a store is by customers, you look at the dishes waiting to go into the boiling pots. Then order with expert sign language mainly of numbers - one of this for how much? The soy or as locals call it "bean" paste foods and desserts I avoid like the plague. I know a chicken gizard and a "ball sack". I can tell a full size cow liver to a pigs. Don't worry I'm not touching those. Knock on wood, my stomache is cooperating with this eating experiment. Sadly, not knowing if the milk is safe I'm not getting a drop of calcium other than the occasional broccoli and miss my cheese. My emergency food stash from the states - I only have chocolate cravings to satisfy so I'm doing good. I'm sure Ill be coming back with a few extra pounds thanks to the unending supply of dumplings and noodles.

Construction - Pollution

Upon arriving in Xi'an the fact that China is still a developing nation could not be more evident. The city of 7 million - the same as the population of Minnesota - is under major construction. I now understand how 70 percent of the world's cement is used here. The hazy air was thicker here - my guide Kellen said because of the construction dust. High rises are going up everywhere - usually 10 at a time the size of skyscrapers. Construction was not so dominant in Beijing. New condos means big business for Kohler- the leading high end Western toilet brand which advertises heavily. All new condos have Western thrones versus the traditional kind level with the floor that you simply squat over. My guide said people can't afford to live in the new condos. The old buildings dating back 50 to 70 years are in terrible shape - some half demolished or vacant. The surgical masks are worn by about one out of every 20 people-leftovers from SARS Something I think I should do as my nose and throat are newly irritated.



Apparently they are rebuilding an ancient palace here that is 5 times the size of Forbidden City - guide said they're just knocking down a major part of the city to do so. They just started it - should be complete in a few years.



I am my guide's first English customer here all month. Tourism is slow in Xi'an. Wondering if the traveling terra cotta exhibit in the US is partly to blame.



I see the sun trying to poke through the hazy - looks more like the full moon on a cloudy night. Off to bike a 600 year old city wall than the soldiers.

Airport-Truly the minority

I know I'm in a foreign country at the very end of tourist season, but I am still struck by being the only white women on my flight to Xi'an, met another gentleman from the U.S. Who is here for his company that manufacturers oil drills. There's another white man as well. Enjoyed "Flavor Tang" fast food at the airport and met an NFL line referee who does the Monday night games-he says its his weekend job. I'm still amazed by the Lebanon man I met on the Wall- how cool. I've collected many business cards, but didn't even think to bring my own. While people do glance at me, they still never stare - except for children. The inequity of women in business is also magnified here - I'm guessing women are only 5 percent of the passengers. Full flight all the black heads of hair are funny. Ah - the next leg of my journey continues.

Peter Pan

Yes, Peter Pan has been my guide for two days in Beijing. Tonight after ending our Ming Tombs and Great Wall tour, he took me out on the town as his friend and had his wife join us. We hit the infamous street where scorpions, octopus - you name it - is available on a stick. Just like the state Fair its best to have several of you to share orders so you can sample a lot. Most items - for example, a tray of dumplings cost about 1 dollar 20 cents for 10. He translated everything I saw and pointed out the typical Beijing Chinese food. His wife was a doll we hit the "times square" like area as well for some shopping. Than the biggest favor of all Peter scored me a ticket for the hard to get show "Kung Fu". This acrobaticn incredibly choreographed and artistic masterpiece could very possible be the next "Blue Man Group". Its artistic, and edgy and of course there were the kung fu stunts of breaking lead bars overs heads and chopping things with hands. Most incredible. It conpletely made up for the terrible touristy Opera I saw the other night- even after several times asking my booking company that that show was Not the one for tourists, but rather locals and it was definately tourists - bad English translation subtitles included. While Peter Pan admitted he couldn't fly - tonight he helped make a wonderful last evening in Beijing. Tomorrow its off to Xian after seeing a few more things in the morning - potentially tia chi in the park if I feel motivated. A tiring day

Top of the Great Wall

Here I sit at the top the Great Wall. Man how I wish you could all be here. Taking pictures with Russians, Liberians and Mongols. I'm the tall white blond doing my best to create world peace one photo request at a time. I haven't seen any other white people for about 15 minutes now. A man in a police uniform just requested a photo. Its sunny and windy. I feel onto of the world. And extremely grateful for the chance to be here. One hour to climb down better get started. Love you all and miss you all.

Water Cube Bird's Nest

After a tasty dinner of Peking Duck on a vacant newly build (just for the Olympics) section just south of Tiannenman I was off to the Olympic sites. I think my cab driver was more excited than I was to help take my picture. The Olympics are a great source of pride here - obviously. Huge banners hanging from skyscrapers. New "Visa is accepted here" signs on stores that include the Olympic rights. Sadly, I haven't seen many Olympic souvenirs - Ill need to track them down tomorrow.



My guide says not much has changed here since the preparation for the Olympics, but later they tell me about public restrooms added everywhere and the crackdown on spitting - you wouldn't believe how out of control that is here. Smoking too.



The blue water cube and red Bird's Nest are very impressive. A tall Olympic sign stands behind them that changes colors. I thought of my nephews Cody and Brady as I stood here. One day perhaps you will travel here too.



Having been to Olympic Park in Atlanta - it pales greatly in comparison. The bright blue cube must be three-four stories high. Bird's nest just taller. I guess ya gotta see the pictures on this one to understand the spectacle. A Dragon shaped hotel (which looks more like a torch) stands just to the side. A massive complex not yet completed.



Good night all as you all rise. I'm realized by 4 in the afternoon here I get tired rightfully so as my body says I should be sleeping. Tomorrow is Great Wall - I'm very excited!

Shopping - fluidity

Overwhelming -- when I hit the mall my local guide recommended. Floors named "happy" meant food and "dreaming" was the movie theater. I found the "elegant" floor more my style. Than to the tourist "Pearl Market" to try my hand at bargaining. While not as agressive as the Egyptian vendors. With the "here lady" and litterly vendors tugging my arm - I decided bargain shopping wasn't for me today, plus I've no room in my suitcase yet. Need to shed more clothes first. Peking duck dinner on the docket for tonight. And early rise for the Great Wall. I know I'm going to have to wear every layer I've got.



I decided today that there is just a fluidity to this city. Traffic appears to move at ease. People never really wait for crosswalk signals. Bikes and cars reside in such harmony together. Its assumed that left hand turns happen before the oncoming traffic does at green lights. People are on the move, you don't see people sitting unless in a restaurant. The giant buildings (most the base size of our downtown skyscrapers, but only half as tall) seem to break that flow. While people honk occasionally there is now verbal or physical demonstration of anger or frustration. These are a calm gentle people, rarely talking or smiling. Women do walk arm or hand in hand. This fluidity has brought a nice calm to me - realizing how I'm always planning with my thoughts or actions. No one is hurried - no running, or even quick walking. The flow of people here is worthy of admiration.

Neighborhood

Nearly 11 hours of the best sleep I've had on months and a refreshing walk in the neighborhood a great start to day 2 in Beijing.

I explored the neighborhood right around my hotel this morning - what a treat! Seeing old men very slowly peddling old squeeky tricycles with baskets. Restaurants sorting the mornings produce outside in the near freezing air. Ditch digging, red lanterns swinging in the wind. Small window vendors - I bought a very sweet donut. The triangular sunflower seed bars Ill have to try next. Checked out a Confuscious temple - the thick incense with the "no smoking" sign made for a good chuckle. Red Cross and Police just down street from hotel - I'm in a great location. Tour guide and driver arrived for a day touring Hutong by bike. I've feeling at home here and loving how people don't stare at me despite being the only white person I saw all morning.

Thank God for picture menus

My first adventure out on my own - dinner. As Chef Ramsey says never trust a menu with pictures. Tonight I luckily choose a restaurant that was just that. One large picture book. The picture looked like chicken, but she said they were noodles - I order because of the spinach looking stuff. The back beautiful produce pictures - and eggplant was my choice. No automatic side of rice - I'm in whole food heaven! When I asked for a knife, my bad pronunciation from my Chinese language map - the hand gesture of cut did the trick. And this place is right around the corner from my hotel. I'm set! Now to thaw out from my cold outdoor day and ready for the Opera. Yipee.

No culture shock

I just realized I'm not having the traditional culture shock on my first day out. Beijing is truly Western. People are not staring at me, the heirogryphic-like Chinese characters perhaps thanks to my Calligraphy class don't stick out to me. There's actually more English everywhere than I expected. When building raw materials - cement and steel priced went up a few years ago - it was blamed on Chinas building boom. Post Olympics that's not evident anymore. The size and scale of things remind me of Moscow with the tall apartment buildings. Aside from the random historical site every few miles - its exactly what I expected. I must now be a citizen of the world :) BMWs, Mercedes and Lexus' rule the streets along with tons of buses - a fare is only 30 cents, and of course bikes. Our lunch was a disappointing American Chinese meal - it can only get better. Some of you asked about photos, I might need to find a Internet cafe to download - Ill try soon. Saw Temple of Heaven and now to Summer Palace. I just love all the bicyclists in this 30 degree weather!

Tiannenman Square

Here I am standing overcome with emotion. Only about 20 years ago, in my lifetime I would never have been able to be here. Much much bigger than Red Square and more meaningful.

Breakfast

Up at 5 am local time after 6 hours of deep sleep. I'm 14 hours ahead of Minneapolis time. Breakfast buffet in hotel will be a test for my whole food diet. I think the baked pumpkin and green beans will be my primary fiber source. While there appears to be Chinese travelers there is a lot of Western food - every meat you want pus rice in every form - fried, in a thick soup, dry cereal and dumplings-not a fan (too processed). Not sure if I should touch the milk or juices so staying away. The birds in cages in the lobby are a nice touch. Okay off to venture the street before connecting w my guide this morning. Would love to find place to buy bottled water or Ill take up boiling water in my rooms tea pot each night :). Feeling rested and ready to explore.

In Beijing

After nearly 21 hours in transit, I am safely in Beijing. Weather is just as cold as Minneapolis. My 10 pm arrival reminds me of my entry into Egypt being met by my young female guide and driver. Not at all the dirty or non developed as Egypt, but truly a developed nation, but still there are open air stands still open this late at night. Just passed a nut stand another produce with doors and windows off and everything laying about. Many mopeds already, even with the cold. Hotel is "english-friendly" heard some Aussies in the bar. My room - simple and I don't know which is funnier the vanity that is at my knees or the phone right over the toilet. Ah some rest for tomorrow is a full day of Tiannenman Square, Forbidden Palace with tour group and Beijing Opera at night. Amazing how one can flip their schedule like this as I'm ready for a nights sleep. Have a good work day everyone.

In the minority

My immersion begins, I'm one of three young white women to board the flight to Tokyo. White is truly the minority likely less than 20 percent. After a chair massage and French Meadow breakfast I'm set for 12 hours in the air. It should go easily with travel books and movies and my Valerian (herb for sleep). I'm wondering if by the end of this trip Ill be able to tell the difference between Chinese and Japanese people. I'm already feeling tall.

Winterized and ready

House and lawn mower are winterized, house is picked up, mail stopped - even got the holiday lights up. Uprooted tree is mostly cleaned up, I hope my cement guy will shift the sidewalk back into place before the ground freezes while I'm gone.

A year of preparation that included reading about 7 Chinese novels, about the same number of movies, Chinese calligraphy class, shopping at Chinese grocery stores, starting a new daily tea habit, attempted Mandarin on CD in the car - I'm officially ready to go. I haven't looked forward to something in such a long time. Two weeks of disconnecting, exploring and learning. Will it be life changing? We'll see. I know it will go by way too quickly.

I'll miss all of you. I send a prayer out to the little babies who need care - those not yet here and those new arrivals, families recommitting to each other, big sis who's starting anew, new job starts and job losses, newly single, and those finding their way in the fog. To those taking it one day at a time.. I'll be thinking of all of you. Love, CP

Coldplay

At Coldplay concert w friend who bought the tickets while in China.... Crazy coincidence or a great kick off to a long vacation. Kurdish dinner to start. Talk about ready to travel :)

Winter is here.

While winter arrives in Minnesota with our first flakes, I'm five days and counting before I'm on the other side of the globe. Can you tell I'm excited!



Now, let's hope I get me storm blown down tree that is uprooted in my backyard cleaned up, my leaves raked and phone service back before I depart. Stay tuned.

Walking like an Egyptian

Two weeks til I'll be on a flight to China. Last night for Halloween I dressed up in the belly dancing costume I bought in Egypt two years ago. I'm getting very excited about my travels and hope this blog will be a good way to keep folks updated on my adventures. Stay tuned.